As I’d done a sleeper train earlier I decided to do a day train and see the countryside roll by this time. 
The alternative was the sleeper bus which I’ve heard has short beds and is very uncomfortable. This is massively upsold by hotels and travel agents as there’s a commission which for some reason is furtive – eg see here the travel agent (on left) getting his commission 

The dining car 

And, given I didn’t fancy anything on the menu, the alternative:

Some views 

And what not to stand on when looking out of the window :

For more on organising train travel in Vietnam look at the amazing Seat 61 website – http://www.seat61.com/Vietnam.htm 

Fast boat to Haiphong then very slow bus to Ninh Binh

I was actually not completely sure I was going to Ninh Binh

And the bus was so slow the conductor feel asleep

but rewarded by spectacular scenery at Tam Coc. Expensive but worth it 

My boatman using his leg rowing technique 

And more from along the route 

Lan Ha bay

Lots of people swapping between boats  

Kayaking into a cave that says, er, Do Not Enter

But out the other side 

Into a stunning lake 

Another tunnel 

Kayaking buds (turned out one of the husbands when to the same school as me – small world!)

The lucky grouper (not so lucky for the fish  – it had been bred in captivity all its life)

More stunning scenery 

And a swim to a beach avoiding jellyfish 

Finally a visit to Monkey Island where my bouldering skills came in handy 

Local sea food 

Hired a scooter and into the island 

To Hospital Cave, a bomb proof hospital for VietCong leaders 

Then a climb to a peak in the National Park 

Finally the Cannon Fort, a French era fort

With amazing views 

The sea around Cat Ba island is cleaner and less touristy than Ha Long bay. And some islands have sandy beaches so I was really looking forward to the cruise

The fisherman’s village (due to Thai government restrictions all fishing communities will have to be here by the end of the year)

A fishing woman using a stand up and push rowing technique 

Gorgeous scenery including a charming beach resort 

A kayak through a tunnel into a lake of jelly fish

More stunning scenery 

Some emergency machinery (what looked like a starter motor) being handed over 

And spotted this sign but no idea what they’re supposed to be selling